Roman Emperor Nero |
"History became legend and legend became myth."
It's hard to know what to believe of the exotic stories
that surround the history of ice cream. The earliest form
of ice cream is said to come from the time of the Roman Emperor
Nero who lived around 54-68 A.D. Apparently, he sent his
slaves to get snow from the mountains to make frozen
drinks with nectar, fruit pulp and honey. |
 Chinese Royal Palace |
Ice cream was supposedly brought to Europe by Marco Polo
in the form of water ices. From his travels to China, which
occurred sometime between 618 and 907, he witnessed the King T'ang
of Shang's staff of over 2,271 people with all of 94 people dedicated
to lugging ice to the palace. Their process for making ice cream was
taking buffalo's, cow's, and goat's milk, heating it, and letting it
ferment. Then they mixed it with flour to thicken it and camphor for
flavoring. (How delicious!) |
Catherine de Medici
|
It's possible that Catherine de Medici of Florence introduced
ice cream to France when she married King Henry II in 1533,
and brought her cooks along with her. King Charles I of England
is said to have bought the formula for "frozen milk" from a French
cook in the 1600's. The recipes underwent some changes as chefs added
eggs and cream, and this fashionable frozen dessert became known as
"cream ices." |
Bombe |
It wasn't until 1660 that ice cream became available to non-nobility.
The Italian chef Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli sold frozen desserts
in Paris such as the bombe glacee, parfait, coupe, and mousse.
But it wasn't until four years later that ice cream was made with
sweetened milk. The recipe for making ice cream was guarded so closely
that it wasn't printed in English until 1718.
In France, toward the middle
of the 1700's, the recipe changed some more as ice cream began to be
made with an egg yolk custard base. |
A Reception with George and Martha Washington |
The first time the actual words "ice cream" were used to
describe that frozen dessert was in 1744 in the Americas.
It is said that the Maryland Governor, Thomas Bladen, served
strawberry ice cream to impress his important guests. In 1784 ice
cream became a favorite of George and Martha Washington, who bought
"a cream machine made for ice" and delighted in serving the frozen
dessert at gatherings. In 1789, Thomas Jefferson brought a vanilla
ice cream recipe back from France. |
Ladies Eating Ice Cream |
During the 1790's ice cream
was all the rage in New York. New flavors were introduced
such as lemon, pineapple and raspberry. Dolly Madison created a
sensation by serving ice cream at her husband's second inaugural
ball in 1813. Soon ice cream recipes began to appear in cookbooks
and some people would make their own ice cream at home. Still, some
maintained that cold foods and drinks were unhealthy and bad for
digestion. |
Nancy Johnston's Hand-Cranked Ice Cream Churn
|
But making ice cream wasn't easy.
It was done in a pewter pot kept in a bucket of ice and salt.
The ice cream mixture had to be regularly stirred by hand with a
"spaddle," which resembled a spade with a long handle. All this
changed in 1843 with the invention of the hand-cranked ice cream
freezer by Nancy Johnston, an American. Her patented invention
consisted of a wooden bucket that would be filled with ice and salt
and had a rotating handle. In the middle was a metal container to
hold the ice cream. By "churning the cream" you could produce ice
cream with a smooth and even texture. |
Jacob Fussell |
Jacob Fussell, a milk dealer
of Baltimore, Maryland, set up the first ice cream "factory" in 1851.
He shipped his ice cream in trains packed with ice to Washington D.C.,
Boston and New York, earning the title of the father of the wholesale
ice cream industry. From then on, ice cream popularity skyrocketed.
Other inventions were made to make ice cream better and faster such as
William Clewell's mechanical ice cream scoop in 1878. |
Ice Cream Sundaes |
In 1880, the ice cream sundae
was born. Many places fight over where it was invented. The most
common story is that started in Evanston, Illinois, when it became
illegal to serve ice cream sodas on Sundays. So the soda fountains
tried topping the ice cream with different syrups, peanuts, or apple
cider, to get around the rule. They called this new dessert the
sunday. The name went through various spelling changes such as
"sundi," "sundhi," and "sundaye" before it was called the sundae
as we know it today. |
Waffle Cone |
The popular story of the origin of
ice cream cone is that it was invented by accident at the 1904 St.
Louis World's Fair when an ice cream vender ran out of dishes and a
Syrian immigrant nearby, named Ernest Hamwi offered his waffle-like
Zalabia pastry to be rolled up as ice cream cones. However,
there are several others that claim to be the first inventor. A
couple of them were at the same World's Fair. A man named Abe Doumar
was apparently already selling cornucopia shaped waffles with a scoop
of ice cream, and a Turkish native claimed he sold edible cones at the
fair as well. Since there reportedly were around fifty ice cream
stands and many waffle shops, it's hard to know for sure who was the
first. We can say for sure that the St. Louis World Fair was the
place where cones became popular, though they weren't called cones.
They were called "World's Fair Cornucopias." |
Ice Cream Cart |
Before the fair, venders in the
US sold their ice cream in a small glass called a "penny lick,"
or they wrapped the ice cream in wax paper referred to as a hokey
pokey from the Italian 'ecco un poco' which means 'try a little.'
The closest thing to an ice cream cone had been used by the French
and was made out of pastry, paper, or even metal. There is an
English recipe for cones to be used to serve ice cream in Mrs.
Marshall's Cookery Book from 1888. And there's a story that a mold
for the cone was patented a year before the fair, by a man from New
York named Italo Marchiony. He had been using cones to sell lemon
ices from his pushcart for almost seven years. The flat-bottom cone
didn't appear till the late 1940's when it was invented by Joseph
Shapiro so workers at Dairy Queen could stand the cones on the counter. |
Ice Cream Parlor |
The US Prohibition Act in
1920 forced many bar owners to turn their bars in to ice cream parlors. Beer-makers switched to making ice cream and in nine years, the annual American ice cream consumption went from 260 million gallons to 365 million gallons.
The first commercial
continuous process freezer came out in 1926, invented by H. H.
Miller, making ice cream producing faster and more efficient. |
Sailor Eating Ice Cream |
In 1927, Americans were not
only eating ice cream, they started singing about it, as the
"Ice Cream song" ("I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream!")
was written by Billy Moll, Howard Johnson, and Robert King.
But it wasn't until three years later that grocery stores actually
sold the stuff. Even then, there was no good way to keep it
frozen at home until the refrigerator/freezer unit was invented
in 1939.
During World War II, ice
cream was banned in Italy by Mussolini because it had become an
American symbol. The US Armed Forces noticed that ice cream was
a real morale booster and soon they became the world's largest ice
cream manufacturer. They even designed a way for ice cream to be
made in the gunner compartment of an aircraft bomber! |
So Many Flavors |
Today, we are surrounded by
choices when it comes to ice cream. We have dozens of brands and
hundreds of flavors. As if that isn't enough, ice cream manufacturers
are constantly coming out with ice cream novelties to suit anyone's
taste. And who do we have to thank for it but a Roman Emperor. |